Riding the Rails

Well, this past weekend's get away plans found me back in Kanchanaburi. I was there the first weekend in December for the reenactment show and to walk Hellfire Pass, but I really couldn't see everything in just one weekend, so I had to get back there. Got in late Friday night and after a light supper went to my room to watch the news. This is something of a novelty to me since I don't have a TV in my room or in the school. Fell asleep watching CNN Asia. Got an early start on Saturday morning. Rented a bicycle from a vendor around the corner from my room and rode out to the Don Rak War Cemetery. This is the main cemetery on the highway in town that is a gift from the people of Thailand to the Allied POWs who died in the camps during WWII. It's all Dutch, Australian, New Zealand, and British soldiers. The few American POWs who died at Kanchanaburi were repatriated to the US. Right next to this cemetery is a Chinese cemetery with lots of interesting looking markers. Both places are a chilling place to be at 6am as the sun is just rising. Rode back into the old town area and stopped at the Japanese Peace Park. It's sort of a sad place as it's so overlooked and looks like it's been vandalized. It's right next to the war museum but I didn't go into that one because it's more like a souvenir shop than a museum. Saw it last time and was greatly disappointed. There is a good museum on a side street by the cemetery that has a large window on the 2nd floor looking down into the cemetery. It's a great museum and worth the time if you get there.

Since I was up early I rode down to the bridge around 7am and noticed several people standing around with cameras. I hung out too and was rewarded with a picture of the morning train to Bangkok as it rolled across THE BRIDGE. That's when it dawned on me that I had seen THE BRIDGE. I had seen the reenactment of the story of THE BRIDGE. I had certainly seen the movie about THE BRIDGE. I had even walked across THE BRIDGE. But I hadn't ridden the train across and on to the end of the line at Nam Tok. So I bought a ticket and climbed aboard the 10am run. This is the regular weekend commuter so it was bare of any luxury. In fact, it was not hard to get in the mood of the history. Windows down (no a/c) allowed for the loud clatter of the steel wheels on the rail. Crowded with locals on their way to visit family in the small villages along the line meant standing for a little while. I did get a seat with a young family on their way to a picnic. After a little while it was mostly tourists aboard and not too many locals. We all marveled at the scenery. As you go around Wang Pho Viaduct the track literally seems to cling to the side of a mountain with nothing but air between you and the Kwai River way, way down below. Decided right then I have to take the river boat tour next time I'm there and see the track from below.

Arrived at Nam Tok in about 2 hours. The track ends there but at one time it did go on through the jungle and up to the line where Hellfire Pass was cut. There's a small station at Nam Tok, a picnic area at the foot of Saiyoke Noi Waterfall, and some food and souvenir vendors. Had sticky rice and gai (chicken) for lunch at an old trestle table in an open air restaurant with chickens pecking the ground under the table. Then I boarded the express train for the 5 hour ride back to Bangkok. Good news: I got to ride in an air conditioned car and saw lots of new countryside. Bad news: after the bike ride and all the train riding my tailbone is very, very sore today. Good thing teaching is a stand up job!

So back to school today and nothing but reviewing classes for next week's finals. Too bad I can't test them on Kanchanaburi.