Saturday, January 26, 2008

Duck Eggs and Fried Goldfish

I know this is two entries in one weekend, but I just had to write about my dinner. I was lucky enough to be invited to a large dinner this evening being put on by the owners of a local manufacturing business. The company was celebrating their 30th anniversary. I went along since I knew that one of the Thai women and the one Chinese teacher both could translate for me. Let me tell you what I learned tonight about Thai culture: Thai people love to party and entertain. Tonight was no exception to that rule. Thais also love to eat and to feed their guests well. From the moment we sat down at our table and were served appetizers until we got up to leave 3 1/2 hours later, food was being served to us. I can't begin to list everything but some of it was really interesting and some of it was just plain good. On the appetizer tray there were what looked like globs of sour apple bubble gum (something I've had some experience scrapping off the bottom of school desks). They turned out to be the best little dumplings I've ever had. I am very clumsy still with my chopsticks but I reminded everyone that we are all teachers and they should be helping me rather than laughing at me.

I also had some delicious prawns (Samutsakorn is a fishing port) and glass noodles. The duck was roasted and had a wonderful rich taste. There was a roasted pork leg, a platter of rice, as well as a fish that was on a platter with one eye looking up at me. I'm happy to report that the eye didn't deter me and that Mr. Fish was tender and flaky cooked with peppers, garlic, and basil. There was also a mixed fish and pork dish that was very tasty until my interpreter told me I was eating little fish. All I could think of were the kids' goldfish in the tanks at school. Didn't care for that dish. Back to ol' fish eye. There were 2 soups, one of which the Chinese girl swore to me translated as belly of the fish, but it tasted good. The other was Tom Yum. Finally there was a fruit plate to finish off the meal: fresh grapes, guava slices, and slices of what looks sort of like an apple and tastes sort of like an apple, but isn't an apple. But it's good too. So, it's 11pm and I'm so full I'm fighting to stay awake to finish writing this before tomorrow when I forget some of the things I ate. It was a great time and all the food made me wish my friend Gayle was here with me. She's a chef and would have really enjoyed the culinary show. And my friend Pam would have knocked out one of the waiters and taken him out back to get his apron for her Coke collection. I've got to find a way to buy one of those for her before I leave (it's easy to recognize the Coke logo but it's all in Thai).

Ok, gotta go and get some sleep. Lots of work to do tomorrow, and like I said, my belly is full and I'm sleepy. Sure hope those fermented duck eggs don't keep me up tonight.

shoes and bugs that bite in the night

No, the shoes don't bite here, but the bugs sure do. Thursday night I moved to a room on the second floor of the dorm. A much sunnier room with the tiniest balcony I've ever seen, but enough room to put out some potted plants and make me think I'm still a gardner. I think I will do all orchids which seem to grow like weeds here (sorry Ann). So, after the move I put things away as best as possible for the night and fell into bed exhausted about 10pm. Around 3:30 Friday morning I awoke in agony. In my sleep I had been clawing at my arms and they were inflamed. I could tell something had bit me but then what were all the red blotches and swellings? Luckily I had some cortisone cream which abated the pain enough to get me through the morning classes. Believe me, as soon as the last class was over I was in a cab on my way to relief. This was my first encounter with the hospitals in Thailand. Very different from American medical system although something like the VA. I was seen by a doctor who spoke very good English and explained that yes, I seem to be allergic to whatever bit me. Perhaps I left the door open and a mosquito or some other creature got in while I was moving my things. I left the hospital (which was beautiful and very modern) and was back at work with only 2 hours lost time and had 4 medicines to get me through the painful stage. All this for less than $30 US. A nice system, pleasant people, really modern, clean facilites. Still, I don't think the pain was worth it.

Now, about those shoes. If you've looked at the school's website (sunflowerschool.co.th) you've no doubt noticed that the students all wear uniforms. Same shirts, skirts, shorts, pants, even shoes. And, as is the Thai custom, the students (and even teachers and guests) remove their shoes before entering the classroom. This past week I've been having fun watching the kids bail out of a classroom for lunch or going home time - you know, then they really want to get out quick - and watching them put on their shoes. I'm amazed that 20-30 kids can rush out the door and find their shoes out of 20-30 idential pairs setting on a bench outside the door. The P1's (our first graders) are the most fun. They don't seem to care if they get the right shoes or not. I've seen them swapping out later on the playground. The important thing is to just get outside. The M1's (our freshmen in high school) are more discerning and will try 2 or 3 different pair until they get the right ones. Some try putting little clues on the shoes (tags, stickers, markings) but the principal always seems to notice and makes them remove it. I guess in a country where 4 or 5 people ride on the same motorcycle at the same time in heavy traffic at breakneck speeds, wearing the same shoes as someone with athlete's foot is a minor worry. More next week.


Vickie

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Things Are Really Different Here

Once again I'm blogging on a Saturday. I didn't set out to only blog on the weekend, it just seems that my weekdays are so full, Saturdays are the first time I get to sit back and think over the week. For some reason I was really noticing how different things are here. I can remember back in the 60s (when I was a student, not a teacher thank you) and seeing some of the teachers out back of the school taking a smoking break. Now days in the US teachers don't even smoke on the school grounds. Part of our politically correct society. But when a frantic student came into the teacher workroom looking for her teacher to get a report card signed I only had to pantomine smoking a cigarette for her to know where to find that teacher. All the students know that teachers go out to the back garden for a cigarette on their breaks - at least all the teachers that smoke. I will say that the majority of the teachers don't smoke, but there are a few. But smoking in Thailand is not the taboo that it is in the US. The government does their part by selling cigarette packs with horrible images of black lungs and other cancerous futures that lie in store for those who partake. Fortunately it's one of the few sins I haven't taken up in my life and hopefully never will. Here's a link that explains the warnings and even shows a few. Pretty hideous. http://www.smoke-free.ca/warnings/Thailand%20-%20warnings.htm

The other odd thing I have really been paying attention to this week is shoes in the classroom. There aren't any. Every classroom has a long rack just outside the door for all students, teachers, and visitors to leave their shoes. Now for a country girl like me it's great to have an excuse to go around barefoot most of the day. Then again there is the issue of proper foot support which is an important issue as you age and spend all day standing on a concrete floor. One teacher I talked to said that he no longer removes his shoes in the classroom because he's beginning to have trouble with falling arches and he needs the arch support in his shoes. So far I seem to be doing fine with the barefoot teaching. I do usually wear socks though which brings around the extra task of making sure your big toe isn't sticking out of a hole. Especially if you're teaching the little ones who notice things at ground level better than most. The socks are more to protect my ankles after work when I go to the outdoor cafe just outside the school. Around sunset, while I'm enjoying my dinner is when the mosquitos are the worst and I have learned the hard way that bare ankles are a favorite entree for the little moskies.

Finally, the biggest difference in the classrooms here is the opening and closing of the class. The class leader of the day (a classroom role that changes daily & is posted on a chart somewhere in the room) states loudly "Please stand up." All students rise and wai (folded hands before their faces as a sign of respect) and say in their best English (if it's a Thai teacher they of course do this in Thai)"Good Morning (afternoon) Teacher. How are you today?" To this I answer I am fine and you. "I'm fine, thank you," is the usual class response. And they remain standing until the teacher gives permission to sit. Then they go back to being typical students (giggling, passing notes, ignoring the teacher, etc). When the tone sounds (we don't use bells here) to signal the end of class the leader once again instructs fellow students to rise and again I am wai'd with a final "Thank you Teacher Vickie." Then they all burst out into the hallway, struggle into shoes, and run off to the toilets, on break, the playground, lunch, whatever. I admit I was a bit taken aback the first time this happened but have gotten used to it now. I've learned to give instructions at the beginning of class while they are all standing if it's something I really want them to hear because no matter how badly they want to, no student will sit until given permission.

All these differences are what makes this a remarkable time in my life. Some days pass with no real surprises, others are packed full. But the most remarkable thing I've seen is the shoes. Since all of the students wear uniforms and matching shoes, how do they know which pair of shoes to put on? One day I'll find out the secret. Till then, it's back to writing lesson plans and grading workbooks.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Sports Day at Sunflower

This Friday was probably the longest day yet for me as a teacher in Thailand. And I didn't spend one minute in a classroom. It was Sports Day, a day when everyone comes out to play. All students and teachers were divied up into one of three teams: red, blue, or green (yours truly got to be a Blue). The evening before tents had been set up for shade around the soccer field in the center of the campus. Each team had its own tent and one tent was set up for the judges. Students began to show up early and eager to compete. The usual plaid skirts and white shirted school uniforms were left home today in favor of sport pants and a shirt in your team color. I walked over to the Team Blue tent to see if I could help out with preparations. I was impressed to see a beehive of work and most of it being done by the students. It's obvious that the students look forward to this day and know they have to do their part in the set up work. Balloons were being tied to tent posts and chairs were being lined up in the shade of the tent. I found a Thai teacher working in the back of the tent area and pitched in to help her fill the enormous water cooler and set up fresh oranges and cups for the athletes. We worked together well and just seemed to know what was needed without having to communicate which was a good thing since she speaks no English and I speak no Thai. Fortunately we both speak the language of smiles and I must say it made me feel good to help out with the work and feel like a real part of the team.
Soon there were opening festivities, including the lighting of a torch and the school's marching band, and the beginning of the games. On the track we had dashes, distance runs, and relays with competition at all levels. Each team had cheerleaders complete with practiced routines, taunting cheers, and colorful costumes complimented by loads of makeup and glittery painted streaks in their hair. All day the spirits stayed high and the cheers rang out (oh, did I mention that each team also had a drummer?). This is not the sort of place to be if you're put off by high levels of energy and noise. There was plenty of both to go around. After the track events, teams moved to the pool area for swim competition. Then a break for lunch. Finally, I slipped out to the air conditioned comfort of the teacher workroom for some quiet, cooling off time. But before the hour was up my rest was interupted by the news that all teachers were to report to the field for the next event. I'll spare you the full details here but tell you that I am very proud of my silver medal and if I never hop around in an old tote sack again in this lifetime it will be too soon. And where did Sara learn to go so fast in one?
The day went on with more competition until finally, after the last soccer game and the cheering competition, we all paraded out to the field for awarding of the team trophies and closing remarks. And lots of pictures, of course. I was beat. My day began around 6:30 and ended at 4:30. After all the clean up was done and students sent on their way, I walked out to the little store just beyond the school gate to buy some chips and a Coke to take back to my room. I was truly fearful I would fall asleep on the first chip. On the way back to the dorm I was invited to join the Thai teachers in a picnic on the ground. Don't know where the energy came from but I must say it was one of my best meals so far in Thailand. There was good music and lots of smiles and laughter. We were all tired and although the language barrier kept us from expressing it clearly, we all knew we'd done a good day's work. And I felt like a real member of the team, the Sunflower Team.

The 5 Senses of Thailand

It's another beautifully perfect day here in Samut Sakorn. Outside this morning I walked around the campus just admiring all the flowers and trees. It's incredible. This is definitely a place that excites all the senses. Here's my take on the subject.

SIGHT: red, orange, pink, yellow: all the brightest colors you can imagine seem to explode here in Thailand. From the flowers to the clothes to the food arranged in the open market stalls, hot bright colors are everywhere.

SOUND: horns honking: no matter where I go in this country, from Bangkok to Thung Song to Udon Thani, you hear horns - car horns, bus horns, and definitely motorcycle horns. But not angry horn honking like in crowded US cities (I admit to taking part in that a time or two). It's more like a polite warning sound as if to say, "Please notice that I'm back here about to pass you so you'd better move over and give me room."

SMELL: So many new smells everywhere, but one that remains a constant will always mean Thailand to me - Joss Sticks. There are little temples everywhere, big ones too. And all of them have burning Joss Sticks.

TASTE: Sweet, spicy, and hot. And frequently all three come in the same bite! I love it.

TOUCH: The one thing you seem to feel no matter where you go in the Land of Smiles is the sun. It's as if he rides just over your shoulder at all times and you wear this extra layer of warmth. In the early cool mornings of this time of year he feels good on your shoulders. By midday he's burning into your skin again. I understand so much better now why Thai people seek out even the smallest amount of shade.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Happy New Year

Hope everyone had a great holiday season. I know I enjoyed my trip to Laos and then coming back to my room in the teacher's dorm and just relaxing for a few days. But today was back to work day. And just like in my old school back in the states, attendance was low and tardies were high. But by the middle of the day things were back to feeling kind of normal. But normal for here in Thailand is not too much like normal for me.

Take my schedule for instance. I'm used to the American system where I have a classroom that I can be found in all day long except for one class period where I might be in the workroom making copies, or having lunch, or some other teacher-type function. The other 5 class periods of the day would see me standing at the doorway greeting students as they entered the room with each class being a different group. Here, I can be found at my desk in the teacher workroom preparing lesson plans or grading student work. That is until it's time for me to teach a class. At that class period I take the books and materials I need to present the lesson and I walk to the classroom where those students are waiting for me. In other words, the teachers rotate classrooms, not the students. And each day my schedule is different. Some days I teach more morning hours while other days I teach more afternoon hours. And while it does feel a little strange still, I have to admit that keeping the students in the room while the teachers move makes for a lot less hall traffic between classes. And having a varying daily schedule is nice for breaking up the monotony. I'm just glad I'm not the one who has to figure out the schedule!

The other odd piece of information for me as an American teacher is the idea that we are beginning the final quarter of the school year. Yes, our school year ends the second week of March and students don't return until May 15th. The month of April is a summer school program and the rest of the time teachers are writing new lessons, workbooks, etc. for the upcoming year. Some of us will even take some vacation. Again, it feels odd but I think I can get used to it. And even though the timing is different, I could sense a little of that "we're almost done with this year" attitude in some of the older students today. I think that some things about teachers and students are universal. We all look forward to reaching milestones whether it's moving up from P6 to M1 or being around "next" year to greet the new teachers.